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![1996 ford explorer fuel pump replacement 1996 ford explorer fuel pump replacement](https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/96977d9e-6ee6-460a-9d32-09b14aa44aed_2.5767b847cf766bb621a42e7fa6c01287.jpeg)
I highly suggest doing this as you will be lifting the tank back up for installation.
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This will pump the remaining fuel out of the tank. Stuck the hose into a gas can and turned the key on. Mine was just barely pumping still so I went ahead and removed the fuel line going to the fuel filter from the tank with the fuel line disconnect tool. If your fuel pump is completely dead then you will not be able to do this. Now your Fuel System is relieved of pressure and you can remove the lines without getting blasted in the face by fuel. (since you have no fuel pressure this should not apply but.) Remove your Fuel Pump Relay. First off you want to relieve the pressure in the system. There is enough room to complete the task but having the front raised up would ease the pain a little bit.Ģ. You don't really need the front of the vehicle in the air though. I just raised the rear of the vehicle by the Differential and set the stands under the rear axle as high as they would go. First off get the truck in the air as high as the stands will go. Tools you will need to replace the fuel pump.ģ/8 drive ratchet, 3", 6", and 9" extensions and a universal joint (you will NEED the u-joint)Īntisieze (any will do but I only use Copper based)ġ. As I was getting rained on I hardly felt the need for this.
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I also usually have pretty detailed write-ups with pictures of every step. Now this is all from memory so you will have to bear with me if some of my sizes and tools are wrong. Not the best but not the worst pump you can buy. I was surprised to find it to be a Carter. So I went and picked up a pump for $160 from Schucks. This was my indication that the Fuel Pump was dead in the water (or fuel actually). Upon turning the key and cycling it on and off for a few times the pressure only went up to about 3-5 psi. Upon connection after the truck had sat overnight there was only enough pressure to get the gauge to move BARELY off the low end stop. There was a fitting within the testing kit for the Schrader Valve. Unscrew this cap and you will see the valve. On the fuel Rail there is a Schrader style (looks like a car/truck tire valve stem) valve with a blue cap on it. So I bought a Fuel Injection Pressure Tester. Codes 420 and 133 were on the car when I first started with it and cleaning the super corroded battery terminals reset the ECU codes. It almost seems like the exhaust could be completely clogged (banana in the tail-pipe.yes I checked! lol) but I highly doubt it.
#1996 ford explorer fuel pump replacement how to
Links to a write-up on how to change the Fuel Pump?Ĭurrently the car will start and run great for a few seconds then start to sputter and die from what sounds like due to lack of fuel. What the Fuel Pressure is supposed to be for the 96 Ford Explorer V-6 4.0L? So.All of this would lead me to a faulty Fuel Pump that went out due to a clogged filter that over ran the pump itself and burned it up.Ĭomments, opinions or any other advice or links to. I do not have a Fuel Pressure gauge so I do not know the Fuel Pressure at this point. It came out but not like it was a high pressure fuel pump pumping it. After re-connecting the filter I checked for pressure at the Fuel Rail and came up with about the same pressure. Fuel came out but it did not shoot out with tons of force. When I was under the car replacing the Fuel Filter I did have my buddy cycle the key. So now I have no codes and the thing still will not stay running. After all of this I didn't even think about it erasing the codes from the ECU. I also cleaned and dielectric greased all other electrical connections that were easy to get at. Cleaned and dielectric greased the terminals.
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Pulled the battery terminals off because they were corroded as all hell. I thought this had to be it or at least a major contributor to the issues. 2 of the plugs were loose and a goose and the 3rd had separated the ceramic from the body of the plug. So I went on to the Spark Plugs and wires. But in the few seconds it started it ran great no detectable misses or anything. Start up and rev a little at first just as all Fords do then it would just slowly die. At this point it still would do the same exact thing. With fuel in the filter after removal, it would flow out the inlet and then I could flip it over and nothing would come out of the outlet. Replaced the Fuel Filter which was completely clogged. Replaced the Serpentine belt mainly for maintenance purposes. So I replaced the Air filter it wasn't too bad or dirty.
#1996 ford explorer fuel pump replacement code
It should still run with an o2 code also. For some reason I highly doubt the Cat is clogged so bad it wont run. So This was happening to my buddies G/F's Ford. Once you determine your Fuel Pump is bad.
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